Just installed the first set of HD adjustable shocks from Betrice cycle ($90+shipping) on CT110 #1. Now here is where I fain politeness. They indicated in
their pictorial destructions that washers should go between the swing arm and lower shock stud and the upper stud and frame mount. Well let me tell ya I could
not get the "bolts" to budge for the love of God or money. I have busted a bolt or two in my life, so I know when to quit. Looking at the bike and
then the Book Of Infinite Knowledge And Wisdom I came to the conclusion that on a 110 the lower stud is welded to the swing arm (still not sure, could be just
seized) I then decided to try the top bolt. Wasn't gonna happen. So there I was pieces parts strewn all over, and two nice new, not going according to
plan, shocks in hand. So for those of you that are going to try this Here are MY destructions:
1. Start on L .side. 2. Remove top and bottom nuts and washers. 3. Remove old shock. 4. Lube studs with WD40 or the like. Do not lube rubber bushings. (You may want to add one washer to both studs top and bottom at this point. You will have to file out one each of the washers supplied or substitute. I did not do this L. side perfect, R. side a slight gap between grommet and frame. I plan on painting exhaust so I will add a shim washer at that time.[no paint, do later]) 5. Push shock on to top stud as far as you can (at least get it started) Take a deep socket slightly larger than stud and use hammer to "tap" shock 1/3 the way on. Install shock on lower stud. Finish "tapping" top into place. 6. Reinstall original washers and nuts. Everything just clears.
The R. side is the same, with a few additions:
1. Remove exhaust nut and washer from upper shock stud. 2. loosen exhaust to head nuts. 3. Remove nut in middle of exhaust under battery box. 4. Try to wiggle exhaust off mounting studs. Use screwdriver and gently pry if necessary. Once free of studs, gently try to rotate exhaust out of the way .( A helper here is necessary to hold the exhaust.It was easier for me to just remove the head nuts and remove the exhaust.
Now follow all the steps for the L. side up to replacing the upper nut. At this point you will have to:
1. install the original washer, and two of the supplied washers. Install nut. 2. add two small supplied washers to exhaust mounting stud. (These will be necessary to get enough clearance between the top "bell" of the shock and the exhaust. )
Reinstall exhaust. 1. Start with the front head nuts. Keep them LOOSE. (A little wd40 on the exhaust "flange will help.). 2. Attach rear mount to shock nut stud. Try to line up center mount at the same time. Reinstall both nuts LOOSELY. 3. check for clearance. 4. finish tightening all nuts a little at a time. Start with head nuts (tighten slightly snug.). Tighten remaining nuts then finish the head nuts.
Plan on about 1 hour for the job. These shocks are stiffer on their lowest setting than stock. I set mine on "position" #2 of 5 (one step stiffer) with the supplied spanner wrench. A NOTICEABLE DIFFERENCE! These shocks are just the ticket. Much less work than a diet!
NOTE: USE ANTI-SEIZE ON ALL NUTS, ESPECIALLY EXHAUST. (And spark plug) ANTI-SEIZE IS YOUR FRIEND.
1. Start on L .side. 2. Remove top and bottom nuts and washers. 3. Remove old shock. 4. Lube studs with WD40 or the like. Do not lube rubber bushings. (You may want to add one washer to both studs top and bottom at this point. You will have to file out one each of the washers supplied or substitute. I did not do this L. side perfect, R. side a slight gap between grommet and frame. I plan on painting exhaust so I will add a shim washer at that time.[no paint, do later]) 5. Push shock on to top stud as far as you can (at least get it started) Take a deep socket slightly larger than stud and use hammer to "tap" shock 1/3 the way on. Install shock on lower stud. Finish "tapping" top into place. 6. Reinstall original washers and nuts. Everything just clears.
The R. side is the same, with a few additions:
1. Remove exhaust nut and washer from upper shock stud. 2. loosen exhaust to head nuts. 3. Remove nut in middle of exhaust under battery box. 4. Try to wiggle exhaust off mounting studs. Use screwdriver and gently pry if necessary. Once free of studs, gently try to rotate exhaust out of the way .( A helper here is necessary to hold the exhaust.It was easier for me to just remove the head nuts and remove the exhaust.
Now follow all the steps for the L. side up to replacing the upper nut. At this point you will have to:
1. install the original washer, and two of the supplied washers. Install nut. 2. add two small supplied washers to exhaust mounting stud. (These will be necessary to get enough clearance between the top "bell" of the shock and the exhaust. )
Reinstall exhaust. 1. Start with the front head nuts. Keep them LOOSE. (A little wd40 on the exhaust "flange will help.). 2. Attach rear mount to shock nut stud. Try to line up center mount at the same time. Reinstall both nuts LOOSELY. 3. check for clearance. 4. finish tightening all nuts a little at a time. Start with head nuts (tighten slightly snug.). Tighten remaining nuts then finish the head nuts.
Plan on about 1 hour for the job. These shocks are stiffer on their lowest setting than stock. I set mine on "position" #2 of 5 (one step stiffer) with the supplied spanner wrench. A NOTICEABLE DIFFERENCE! These shocks are just the ticket. Much less work than a diet!
NOTE: USE ANTI-SEIZE ON ALL NUTS, ESPECIALLY EXHAUST. (And spark plug) ANTI-SEIZE IS YOUR FRIEND.
