I also think that factory settings are merely vague suggestions. The 5 turns out might be needed, but gotta say there's much more to it.

In order to have any idea where you're at on adjustment you need to make adjustments to find out. That is, opening fuel mixture screw to the very highest smooth idle shows maximum Rich Idle setting, and screwing it back in until it JUST begins to slow engine shows Lean idle position. From there you can choose, based on other settings, what's best, as mentioned in that post about Keihin Adjustment & Balance.

Some engines are going to stumble as they come off idle/pilot jet into main jet, and others may not be getting full advantage of a proper mixture. What you want is stoichiometric air/fuel mixture ratio at low, medium & high speeds, with the carb merely increasing total flow of that A/F ratio at various engine needs. That stoichiometric ratio is approximately 14.7 parts air to 1 part fuel, so Stoich is 14.7:1 ratio.

You first establish that through pilot/idle jet size & mixture screw adjustment at curb idle speed. For higher speeds the main jet with needle connected to slide maintains that stoich ratio, and slide piston opening plus taper of needle jet's needle adjusts total flow of that [hopefully] same constant 14.7:1 mixture.

The variables are condition of jets & air bleeds & orifices & circuits in carb, and size of idle/pilot jet, size of main needle jet & that jet's needle, and jet needle height in slide piston. Listening to engine speed at initial mixture adjustment at idle gets you started, & reading the sparkplug tells more about main needle jet conditions. Also bogs or stalls in transitions off the idle jet into main jet tell a lot.